Sisterlocks 101: A Guide From A Dermatologist With Sister Locs

For Black women, men, and People of Color, what we decide to do with our hair is one of the major decisions we make during our lives.

Our hair represents our style, our current stage of life, and even what we believe.

When it comes to choosing a long-term hairstyle, sisterlocks are becoming a popular option.

After having sisterlocks for almost two decades, I'm equipped to give you the details on understanding this hair care method and what to expect.

For me, sisterlocks are a journey of self-discovery, patience, and profound respect for your hair's uniqueness.

Furthermore, as a board-certified dermatologist and the founder of BLCK Hair Care, I understand my sisterlocks at a deeper level.

For now, this is all about sisterlocks 101 - all the basics you need to know so you can make informed decisions on your loc journey.

What are Sisterlocks?

You've heard of traditional dreadlocks and even micro locs, but what are sisterlocks, anyway?

Well, it's that beautiful in-between.

Also spelled 'sister locs,' sisterlocks are a specialized type of dreadlock characterized by their small size and interlocking installation technique.

This unique style was developed by Dr. JoAnne Cornwell in 1993.

Sisterlocks were designed to provide a natural hairstyle option for Black women without chemical treatments or extensions.

It's also a movement.

Sisterlocks are a commitment to self-expression and exploration with your natural hair.

The installation process involves using a unique tool and technique to interlock small sections of hair, starting from the ends and working toward the roots.

It follows a grid-like, uniform pattern that ends with a unique and appealing hairstyle.

Each loc is about half the size of traditional dreads, ranging from 1/8 to 3/8 inches in width.

The small width and precision technique means you can end up with over 350 individual locks. This depends on your hair density, head size, and loctician expertise.

The sisterlocks technique minimizes tension on the scalp and reduces the risk of damage to hair follicles.

Difference from Traditional Locs

While both sisterlocks and traditional locs serve as protective hairstyles, they differ significantly in their installation, maintenance, and overall appearance.

 As mentioned before, sisterlocks are smaller and thinner than traditional dreadlocks, but that's not where the differences end.

Sisterlocks require a patented interlocking tool that forms small, uniform locks. Block your calendar because the process can take multiple hours (some go as long as 24-36 hours!) depending on hair density and length.

A professional loctician should install your locks for the best outcome, but there has been a rise in DIY sisterlocks.

Opting for the DIY route, especially if it's your first time, can result in poor locking methods, potential hair damage, and even a dissatisfied outcome, sending you to a professional anyway.

Traditional locs are larger locks typically formed through methods such as palm rolling, twisting, or matting large sections of hair.

This process is generally quicker and can often be done at home or by a loctician in about 45-90 minutes.

Traditional locs and sisterlocs also differ in maintenance.

During your initial sisterloc journey, you'll have a more structured maintenance process, with retightening sessions every 4-6 weeks.

Traditional locs need fewer maintenance sessions and can even be done independently by the wearer.

What sets sisterlocks apart from traditional locs is their styling versatility.

Their smaller size and lighter weight mean they can be used for multiple styles. The thicker traditional locs might have limited styles.

Sisterlocks can also be installed on various hair types, including natural or relaxed hair, while traditional locks generally require completely natural hair for the locking process to work effectively.

Your hair type (4a or 4c hair, for instance) will determine the strategy used for your sisterlocks installation.

 

How are Sisterlocks Done?

A loctician will perform an initial consultation to review your hair, discuss potential styles, and set expectations. It’s a trademarked technique that requires expertise, so choose the best loctician near you that fits your budget.

The loctician may install a few tester locks to determine hair responsiveness or the pattern or style to best suit the hair texture.

Other factors discussed include cost, length of appointment(s), and possible requirements.

Before coming to your appointment, you’ll need to wash your hair, ensuring it’s free of product buildup.

The loctician will part and section your hair and begin the process in a grid pattern. The sisterlock tool will be carefully used to install each loc from the ends up to the scalp.

This process will take multiple hours over 2 or more sessions.

The First Year: What to Expect

In the first 1-3 months, your sisterlocks will appear thin and small. You may notice some unraveled ends, and your hair will feel delicate.

It's common for your scalp to be visible during this time, especially if you have a fine hair texture.

By month 3, locks will settle more definitively though there might be some itching and tenderness as your scalp adjusts.

Maintain cleanliness by washing and air drying your hair as recommended by your loctician.

Around this time you’ll be thinking about retightening appointments to address loose ends or problem areas.

This not only helps maintain the structure of your locks but also promotes healthy growth by preventing slippage or unraveling

From months 3-5, you will notice that your locks are thickening and starting to gain length. Depending on your natural hair texture, they may also begin to take on a wavy or curly pattern.

As you move into the second half of the year, expect your locks to continue thickening and growing, becoming more defined.

Getting through that initial period is liberating as you can start experimenting with different hairstyles, but it's advisable to keep manipulation low to allow for healthy growth.

7 Common Challenges During the First Year of Sisterlocks

It’s not all smooth sailing in your first year. You’ll encounter a few challenges and setbacks that make you question your decision. It’s all worth it in the end, but don’t be surprised if you experience:

1. Dryness and Breakage: Since the locks are tightly coiled, natural oils from the scalp struggle to travel down the hair shaft, leading to brittle locks. Using products like our BLCK Lux Scalp Detox can help maintain your hair’s hydration.
2. Scalp Sensitivity and Itching: Itching and scalp sensitivity are common as the hair is tighter interlocked. Proper moisturizing and washing can help.
3. A more visible scalp: If you’re like me, you did not enjoy the ‘scalpiness’, bald-like appearance. Having your scalp exposed can make you feel self-conscious but it is a normal part of the locking process that typically resolves as the locks mature.
4. Slippage and unraveling: Some locks will unravel at the roots or slip out of the style. This is common if they are not installed properly or if proper care is not maintained. Remember to go to your retightening appointment every 4-6 weeks during that first year to reinforce your locks.
5. Limited styling: Of course, you can’t do much with your hair until your sisterlocks get out of that angsty teenage stage. It’s frustrating but be patient and trust the process.
6. Frizzing: Based on your hair texture and as new growth appears, frizzing can happen. Managing frizz requires careful use of light oils and possibly protective styling techniques to keep locks smooth without adding buildup.
7. An expensive commitment to maintenance: The initial installation can be expensive and the first year of sisterlocks can cost hundreds of dollars in retightening appointments. We’re not even talking about general hair care. If you do not budget and commit to the sisterlock process, it can feel overwhelming.

How do you care for your sisterlocks?

Sisterlocks 101 is not complete without some general care guides. Here is what everyone on their sisterlock journey should consider from a practical and yes, medical perspective (I’m a dermatologist, I can’t help it).

• Be patient as your journey is unique based on hair texture and density.
• Follow the advice of your sisterlocks consultant, especially in year one.
• Celebrate each stage of growth. The initial phases may not resemble the final look you envision. Trust the process!
• Hydration is key to maintaining healthy locks, inside and out. Drinking lots of water keeps your scalp moisturized. Use recommended products with hydrating ingredients to keep your locks and scalp healthy.
• Sleep with a silk bonnet or pillow to protect your locs.
• Massage your scalp with serums or our BLCK Lux Detox for additional moisture and scalp care.
• Just like any other part of your body, your hair thrives on a balanced diet. The nutrients you consume directly influence the health and appearance of your Sisterlocks. A well-nourished body leads to strong, vibrant hair. Healthy, lean proteins and foods rich in B vitamins, iron, vitamin C, and omega-3 fatty acids are recommended.
• Use protective styles like buns, wraps, or updos to minimize wear and tear, especially during year one.
• While a balanced diet is ideal, supplements can provide an extra boost. I recommend options like Nutrafol which has biotin, vitamin D, iron, and saw palmetto.
• Avoid heating tools during the first 6 months of your sisterlocks.
• Visit a doctor, such as a dermatologist, for additional advice if you have hair concerns.

Common Sisterlock Myths

Myth 1: Sisterlocks Damage Your Hair

Fact: When installed and maintained correctly, sisterlocks actually protect your natural hair. I’ve found that the locking process encourages my hair growth and minimizes breakage.

Myth 2: Sisterlocks Are High Maintenance

Fact: While sisterlocks require regular maintenance, especially during the first year, they are relatively low-maintenance over time, compared to other natural hairstyles. It’s great for people like me who may not have time to comb and style my hair every day.

Myth 3: Only Certain Hair Types Can Have Sisterlocks

Fact: Sisterlocks can be achieved on most hair types, including fine, medium, and coarse hair. Even relaxed hair. The key to successful Sisterlocks is proper installation and consistent maintenance.

Myth 4: Sisterlocks Are Painful to Install

Fact: While the initial installation process may cause some discomfort, it's generally not painful. The level of discomfort can vary depending on individual pain tolerance and the stylist's technique.

Myth 5: Sisterlocks Limit Your Styling Options

Fact: Sisterlocks offer a surprising range of styling possibilities. You can experiment to create unique and stylish looks. As your locks mature, you can even try more intricate styles like twists, braids, and buns.

Myth 6: Sisterlocks Are Only for a Certain Age Group

Fact: Sisterlocks are suitable for people of all ages. Whether you're a young adult or a seasoned individual, Sisterlocks can be a beautiful and empowering hairstyle. Even tweens and teens are considering sisterlocks. They can be styled to complement your personal style and age.

Enjoy The Sisterlock Journey

Sisterlocks are much deeper than a protective hairstyle - it's a transformative experience of self-discovery and empowerment.

The process is unique but can protect your hair and give you versatile styling options while being low-maintenance over time. The smaller locks work seamlessly with your hair type and texture, creating a naturally curly or wavy look.

For me, it's been my calling card and also grown with me through the many stages of my career and life. 

Sisterlocks also motivated this blog and brand as we will provide products to support the growth and health of braids, locks, curls, and kinky hair. 

As you embrace your natural hair texture and navigate through the initial challenges, you'll find yourself growing in confidence and self-acceptance.

Whether you're considering sisterlocks or are already on this path, remember to be patient and trust the process, while choosing the best loctician or consultant for your needs.